Second-hand Rose

I grew up in a second-hand clothing store and for me, every day was Halloween. I carried my crayons to school in an art deco beaded bag and wore children's party dresses from the '30s over my jeans.

Thirty years later my passion for vintage is undimmed. Hand sewn, whimsical and made with rare materials, vintage fashion is often the closest thing to couture for a girl on a budget. Yet the true value of a vintage piece doesn't dwell in its collectibility, its rarity or even its bargain price. What these clothes provide is an axis of imagination. When you wear vintage clothes well you simply look like no one else. Find the era that is kind to your body type and your private style daydreams and you have found your bliss.

1890s-1900s
Clothing from the Edwardian era is fragile, yet some items survive the passage of time because they are so well made--or made of tougher stuff, like heavy cottons used for nightwear and underwear. Cut lace from a dress that has disintegrated and graft it to a brand-new, plain white cotton shirt or a little black velvet dress. Hem an Edwardian night shirt to hip length and wear it with a sweeping black silk skirt. I wear Victorian petticoats with long cashmere sweaters and tiny satin-backed gangster-style waistcoats: Emmylou Harris via Italian Vogue.

Best buys: Nineteenth century pashmina cashmere or antique Asian or Indian textiles (even in segments) may be re-used as coat lining or worn as a wrap. Native and Central American silver. Victorian mourning jewelry. Nightwear and underwear made of durable cotton. Cotton lace and velvet ribbons. Antique ribbon: brilliant as a stand alone choker or as a bow on a jacket lapel.

1920s
It is a sad fact that 1920s dresses cut on the bias, especially of silk velvet, tend to rip across the hips and elbows. I had a shocking experience last Thanksgiving in a blood-red velvet dress that cleaved clear in half! Chastened, I now wear the top half as an evening top with jeans. Expensive because of their rarity, '20s clothes are definitely a delicate statement piece or evening wear luxury – not appropriate as an everyday staple (like '50s day dresses or ‘40s jackets). For a more durable deco look, look for accessories: metal mesh handbags, enamel compacts, costume jewelry made of glass and semiprecious stones. In terms of outerwear--such as opera coats, capes, suits and linen dust jackets--the long waistless forms of the era cut a strange, somewhat matronly figure so don't feel shy about re-cutting them to your own proportions. Wear a military-style '20s pea coat re-hemmed to mid-thigh with tall leather boots, a beret and a mini and suddenly you have Chloe style!

Best buys: Lace and chiffon tea dresses; cloaks made of heavy damask; oriental embroidered jackets and knitted scarves; satin bed jackets (wear lingerie as evening wear); knitted, cut velvet and felt cloche hats; marquisette necklaces and earrings; bakelite bracelets (though these can be pricey) and special occasion jewels. Why not make a Gatsby era engagement ring your "something old?" Check out www.hemlockvintage.com.

1930s
Like the '20s, pre-war era day dresses were made of chiffon, silk and very sheer cottons. Some survive in excellent condition, but they usually cost more than $300. Look for dresses made from rayon, heavy silk satin and crepe. Look for prints with bright colors and bold patterns (you don't want to look like Blanche Dubois) and also knits. Thirties girls wore the most marvelous sweaters, usually adorned with cute little hand-carved buttons and unusually shaped collars and cuffs. The '30s silhouette was very long in the hem and narrow on the waist. It's a slimming line but can be a bit frumpy or complicated to wear for everyday. Handbags from this era are best value in skins and need to be kept dry and away from light and dust.

Best buys: Knitwear (like men's Arran waistcoats), handbags and evening clutches, dime-store jewelry (paste, plastics, glass necklaces and bracelets), brooches, evening dresses and blouses (check under the arms for stains and wear), hats (felt lasts well) and best of all lingerie. Camisoles, slips, peignoirs and tap pants all have the most amazing embroidery and are often handmade... Don't be put off by the intimate history of underwear: much of it was kept for best occasions and barely worn. Check out www.kittygirlvintage.com.

1940s
Wartime fashion was made to accentuate curves. Low-cut dresses, bias-cut hips and wasp waists turn the thinnest girl into Betty Boop and make real women look like real goddesses. The trick with '40s coats and frocks is to whip out those enormous shoulder pads, lower knee-length hemlines and short waists (‘40s dresses can be weirdly child-like in proportion) then mix each piece with modern accessories. Floral '40s day dresses can make a grown woman look homely without any contrasting accents and the large bows and outlandish decorations of evening dresses need very plain shoes and bags to underscore their campiness. The big-band era was a slightly ugly moment for handbags (chocolate brown being a favorite '40s shade), so look to gloves, belts, hats and jewelry for vamp appeal.

Best buys: day dresses, evening dresses, suits (shorten or lengthen the hem for more style), mad little hats, long embroidered gloves, fancy evening jackets (wear them with tuxedo pants or jeans and heels), swing coats, wedding dresses (probably the best satin and lace ever), pants (the age of Katharine Hepburn), tweeds and fancy printed silk scarves. Check out www.ballyhoovintage.com.

1950s
Fifties fashion can be oddly static and cartoon-like if worn the wrong way. Snap up fifties tweeds for fall (like Gwyneth Paltrow in Sylvia) or '50s prom dresses for holiday (like Carrie Bradshaw on Sex and the City) but always find a way to make it modern. Wearing fifties "your way" could be as simple and subtle as wearing a natural bra rather than a push-up under a vintage twin-set... or no bra at all! The overwhelming cuteness of '50s floral print skirts and baby-size pastel cardigans can look more kitsch than chic so reach for sleeker styles: boat-neck ballet dresses, Grecian-style pleated chiffons, shantung opera coats and chunky charm bracelets with beatnik black. As with all vintage clothing, you need to honor your proportions and trim back to the bones. This might simply involve taking out wiring, the bullet proof bust padding and all those extra frills and bows from a perfectly good but somewhat over-constructed frock.

Best buys: large petticoats, heels (if they fit, look for fabric rather than skins), gloves, silk scarves (think Grace Kelly), coats (make sure to shorten the hem), suit jackets (lose the matching skirt), handbags. This is the era of fun, fabulous novelty bags. Match them with something very serious like a black suit. Hats! Fifties hats featuring outlandish feathers and flowers look great with a very short mini dress and high-heeled boots or a black cocktail dress and kitten heels. Miss Kitty at the Cat's Pajamas vintage (www.catspajamas.com) specializes in mint-condition millinery. I own three! Check out www.gloriousvintage.com

1960s
Fall is awash in mod gear and the most costly couture from the '60s is Courrege and Yves Saint Laurent. Thankfully the simple shapes of the '60s and the bright colors were easily knocked off and widely mass produced. The cuts in the '60s were designed for the young groovy career girl (think That Girl meets Down with Love) and they still look great with a pair of heels and a swinging blow-out hairdo. A good cashmere overcoat with a satin lining might not be in bright lilac like this season's Marc Jacobs, but it will have the same feel.

Best buys: Coats! Coats! Coats! And slim little suits. '60s lingerie was mostly nylon, the bags and shoes were often vinyl but nice tapestry handbags and some skins such as lizard and croc retain a classic appeal (check out www.lapochette.com). For evening try Pucci style prints, gown with elaborate beading around the neckline or (for the very tall) palazzo pants. Check out www.legacy-nyc.com.

1970s
Designer clothes from the '70s are now more expensive than any other era. The staff at Resurrection in New York's Nolita saw Nicole Kidman swoop in recently and scoop up all the Ossie Clark they had. Clark had a recent retrospective in London and his dresses cost $800 to $1500 each. Clark looked to the '30s for inspiration and so can you. Wearing a cheaper '70s dress with a '30s brooch or separate collar gives you a similar chic without the cost. Seventies clothes without designer labels such as Yves Saint Laurent, or Biba cost much less and this was the era of ultimate style surfing, so never wear '70s gear from top to toe. A little goes a long way.

Best buys: Leather coats, maxi skirts, funky hand-embroidered and hand-tooled handbags, Missoni knits, stretch crepe evening dresses, tailored pant suits, velvets. Check out www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk

1980s
The most extreme examples of '80s bad taste from Michael Jackson-style leather jackets to Flashdance sweats are all being revived by the major designers right now. Big floppy vintage Carlos Falchi bags, suede-fringed boots, chunky belt buckles and soft pastel leathers have their place when worn with classic basics. Find the best of '80s style in dancewear, fancy lace stockings, patent leather and outlandish knits. A stretchy, go-anywhere polyester cocktail dress is always a good '80s buy. Watch "The Lady in Red" and steal Kelly Le Brock's look.

Best buys: French designer shoes (Maude Frizon, Charles Jourdan, Walter Steiger), large costume jewels, crazy angora knits, denim jackets, silk jersey cocktail dresses. Check out www.enokiworld.com

_{Anna Johnson is the author of Handbags: The Power of the Purse and Three Black Skirts: All You Need to Survive and has written for Elle, Vanity Fair, Vogue UK and other magazines. She's a correspondent for the Australian cable TV program By Design. Born in Australia, she divides her time between New York City and Sydney.}